Bangkok
From Wikitravel
- Bangkok is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them all.
For years, it was only a small trading post at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, until King Rama I, the first monarch of the present Chakri dynasty, turned it into the capital of Siam in 1782, after the burning of Ayutthaya by Burmese invaders. Since then, Bangkok has turned into a national treasure house and functions as Thailand's spiritual, cultural, political, commercial, educational and diplomatic center.
Districts
Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife and fervor. Administratively, it is split up into 50 districts (เขต khet), which are further split into 154 subdistricts (แขวง khwaeng), but these are more often used in official business and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division below of the main areas more useful for getting around.
| Siam Square The area around Siam Square, including Ratchaprasong and Phloen Chit Road, is Bangkok's modern commercial core, full of glitzy malls and hotels. The Skytrain intersection at Siam Square is the closest thing Bangkok has to a center. |
| Sukhumvit The long Sukhumvit Road is an exclusive district popular among expatriates and upper class locals. It is filled with quality hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. Part of its nightlife represents Bangkok's naughty image, particularly Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment Plaza. |
| Silom The area around Silom Road and Sathorn Road is Thailand's sober financial center by day, but Bangkok's primary party district by night when quarters like the infamous Patpong come alive. |
| Rattanakosin Between the river and downtown lies the densely packed "Old Bangkok", home to Bangkok's best-known sights, such as the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. |
| Khao San Road On the northern part of Rattanakosin, Bangkok's backpacker mecca Khao San Road and the surrounding district of Banglamphu have everything a budget traveler could possibly be looking for. |
| Yaowarat and Phahurat Along Yaowarat Road you will find Bangkok's Chinatown, while Phahurat Road is the home of the city's sizable Indian community. This multicultural district is filled with temples, shrines, seafood restaurants and street markets. |
| Dusit This leafy, European-style area is the political center of Thailand, home to numerous political institutions and the monarchy. Its breezy palaces, lush gardens and broad avenues give this district its distinct character. |
| Thonburi The quieter west bank of the Chao Phraya river. Most visitors explore this district with a canal tour, at least taking in Wat Arun, the Royal Barges National Museum and one of the floating markets. |
| Pratunam Pratunam is a large garment market with hundreds of fashion stores selling both retail and wholesale. It also includes Baiyoke Tower II and Victory Monument. |
| Phahonyothin The area around Phahonyothin Road and Viphavadi Rangsit Road is a large suburb in northern Bangkok. In weekends, it is the best place to go hunting for bargains. The Chatuchak Weekend Market has more than 8000 stalls selling anything and everything under the sun. |
| Ratchadaphisek Since the completion of the metro line, Ratchadaphisek Road has developed into an entertainment mecca for the locals. The sois of "Ratchada" are popular clubbing spots, as is Royal City Avenue (RCA). |
| Ramkhamhaeng Along Ramkhamhaeng Road lies a vast residential area with big shopping malls and amusement parks (like Safari World). Each neighborhood has its own distinct character, but Hua Mark and Bang Kapi stand out as lively areas with many students from the universities. |
Around Bangkok are the provinces of Nakhon Pathom to the west, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Pathum Thani to the north, Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Prakan to the southeast and Samut Sakhon to the southwest.
[edit] Understand
[edit] History
"Bangkok" originally was a small village on the west bank of the Chao Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya in the late 18th century, King Taksin the Great turned that village into Siam's new capital and renamed it Thonburi. In 1782, King Rama I moved the capital to the eastern bank of the river at Rattanakosin; originally the site of a Chinese community, who were moved outside of the new city walls to Yaowarat. King Rama I named the city Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais and which in English is translates as the "City of Angels".The full name "Krung thep mahanakhon amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit" (กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลกภพ นพรัตน์ราชธานี บุรีรมย์อุดมราชนิเวศน์มหาสถาน อมรพิมานอวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะวิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์) is listed as the world's longest location name by the Guinness Book of Records; an English rendering goes like this: "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city of Ayutthaya of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn". The original village of Bangcok has long since ceased to exist, but foreigners never caught on to the change.
Life was taking place on the water; ordinary people lived on bamboo-rafts along the the river, while floating vendors roamed the water to sell fruit and vegetables. The only stone structures built on land were temples and palaces. In the 19th-century, Western powers incorporated much of Southeast Asia into their colonial empires. King Rama IV and V felt that the only way to keep Siam independent was to modernize the country along European lines. Traditional canals were filled up and turned into roads. King Rama V moved the residence of the King to Dusit and laid out that district's grand boulevards along European lines.
Bangkok really started to develop after World War II. The economic center shifted from the orderly planned city of Rattanakosin in an eastward direction, leaving Bangkok without an obvious center. Bangkok established itself as the driving power behind Thailand's new role as a newly industrializing country from the 1980s onwards. Rapid economic growth has attracted migration from the countryside, with millions of Thais moving here from Isaan to make a living.
This rapid expansion turned Bangkok into one of the most cosmopolitan and happening cities in Asia; but also ensured numerous problems. A wide gap has emerged between those who profit from economic activity, and those who came to the city from the countryside in search of work. Bangkok's seemingly never-ending traffic jams continue as the new Skytrain and metro systems are too expensive for the working class. Getting a break from the fumes in a park would seem to be a good idea, if it wasn't that Bangkok having the lowest amount of green space among all capitals in the world.
[edit] Addresses and navigation
Addresses in Bangkok use the Thai addressing system, which may be a little confusing to the uninitiated. Large roads such as Silom or Sukhumvit are thanon (ถนน), often abbreviated Th or glossed "Road", while the side streets branching off from them are called soi (ซอย). Sois are numbered, with even numbers on one side and odd numbers on the other side. Thus, an address like "25 Sukhumvit Soi 3" means house/building number 25 on the 3rd soi of Sukhumvit Road. While the soi numbers on each side will always advance upward, the numbers often do not advance evenly between sides — for example, Soi 55 could be across from soi 36. Many well-known sois have an additional name, which can be used instead of the number. Sukhumvit Soi 4 is also known as "Soi Nana", so the address above might thus also be expressed as "25 Soi Nana". The extension /x is used for new streets created between existing streets, as seen in Sukhumvit's soi pattern 7, 7/1, 7/2, 9, 11. Note that some short alleys are called trok (ตรอก) instead of soi.
To further bewilder the tourist who doesn't read Thai, the renderings of Thai street names in the Latin alphabet are not consistent. The road running towards the (former) airport from Victory Monument may be spelled Phahonyothin or Phahon Yothin or Pahon Yothin or Phaholyothin depending on which street sign or map you consult. It's all the same in Thai, of course, only the romanization varies.
And if that's not confusing enough, most of the larger streets tend to change names altogether every few kilometers. Sukhumvit is called Sukhumvit on one side of the tollway (roughly east), but it becomes Phloen Chit just before you cross Witthayu Road (aka Wireless Road) going towards the river. Keep going just a few more streets and it becomes Rama I Road (or Phra Ram Neung Road) after you pass Ratchadamri Road. But if you were to turn right onto Ratchadamri, in just a few blocks you'll find yourself on Ratchaprarop Road (past Phetchaburi, aka New Phetburi, which is called Phitsanulok closer to the river). Got it?
Fortunately, there's logic to these name changes: most of them are neighborhoods. It wouldn't make sense to call the road Sukhumvit if it's no longer running through the Sukhumvit area, would it? Thus, Sukhumvit becomes Phloen Chit where it runs though the Phloen Chit area. It's when you're able to grasp the city in terms of its neighborhoods that it both becomes more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, each with their own distinct character.
Related to this last point, compass directions are not widely used by Thais to navigate in Bangkok. That's probably because they aren't very useful; the city's Darwinistic layout, the changing street names, the winding river, and the lack of obvious landmarks all conspire to confuse your internal compass. Thus, asking for directions in terms of "Is that west from here?" will probably earn you little more than a confused look from a local. You're better off to familiarize yourself with the neighborhoods and navigate to and from them. "How do I get to Thong Lo?" will get you there faster than asking for directions to Sukhumvit Soi 55.
One exception: the Chao Phraya River is the landmark in Bangkok, and many directional references can be made as "toward the river" or "away from the river". If you aren't too close, that is: since the river winds around the most popular tourist areas, river references tend to be most helpful when you're wandering farther afield than Khao San Road, Sanam Luang or Rattanakosin. And wander you should.
[edit] Climate
| Climate | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Daily highs (°C) | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 34 | 33 | 33 | 33 | 32 | 32 | 32 | 31 |
| Nightly lows (°C) | 21 | 23 | 25 | 26 | 26 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 25 | 24 | 23 | 21 |
| Precipitation (cm) | 9 | 29 | 28 | 64 | 220 | 149 | 154 | 196 | 344 | 241 | 48 | 9 |
Check Bangkok's 7 day forecast (see "Metropolitan") at TMD.go.th | ||||||||||||
The most pleasant time to visit is the cool season that lasts from November till February. It is both the coolest and driest period — the Emerald Buddha statue in Wat Phra Kaew even wears a scarf during this period! Don't think that's necessary though — daytime temperatures still hover around 30°C (86°F), but it does cool down into the lower 20s as it gets dark (lower 70s in Fahrenheit). March and April represent the hot season, and hot it is — 35°C (95°F) on average, but don't be surprised to see temperatures rising into the 40s °C (around 100 °F+). This is the worst season to visit Bangkok, so plan in a lot of air-conditioned shopping mall visits and get a hotel with a swimming pool. Then there's the wet season that runs from May till October. Expect massive downpours resulting in floods all over the city, and spells of thunder at times. It's not all bad though — the afternoon showers are actually a pleasant way to cool down from the heat, and while they may last all day, usually they're over within an hour. Extreme rainfall happens in September and October, so these months are best avoided.
Whatever season you're visiting, don't take the weather lightly — temple-tramping in the middle of the soaring afternoon sun can be a challenge, so come well-prepared. Dress lightly for the weather, but keep in mind that some palaces and temples (notably the Grand Palace) have a strict dress code. Also be sure, and this cannot be said enough, drink enough fluids! You don't have a reason not to, as 7-Elevens and other convenience stores are abundant in Bangkok and they sell cooled beverages for as little as 10 baht. Locals get their water from "reverse osmosis" purified water machines that fill up a bottle for less than 3 baht.
[edit] Literature
- The Butterfly Trap (Dennis Jon, 2003). This book is best described as a travelogue. It gives a realistic and non-judgmental first-person account of Bangkok's nightlife industry.
[edit] Movies
Foreign films were popular in Thailand from the get-go, but in the 1920s a local film industry started to emerge in Bangkok. The most critically acclaimed Thai movies were produced in the "three waves" of the Bangkokian film industry, the 1930s, the 1950s and the late 1990s/2000s, although movies made before World War II have unfortunately been lost. Predominant genres are action, historical epics, romance and gay/transgender movies, almost always intertwined with elements of comedy. The following are staged (at least partly) in Bangkok:- Bangkok Dangerous (บางกอกแดนเจอรัส เพชฌฆาตเงียบ อันตราย, The Pang Brothers, 1999). The debut of the Pang Brothers, Bangkok Dangerous is a stylish movie about a hitman who finds love, and realizes how his actions are hurting good people.
- Iron Ladies (สตรีเหล็ก, Youngyooth Thongkonthun, 2000). This movie follows the true story of a men's volleyball team that almost entirely consists of gay and transgender players. The team competes for the 1996 national championships, and while the crowd loves them, they are being judged by other teams and match officials.
- The Beach (Danny Boyle, 2000). Richard (played by Leonardo DiCaprio) is a young American backpacker looking for adventure. In Khao San Road, he meets Daffy, who makes him believe a beach paradise exists on a secret island. While not necessarily a good movie, it is popular among backpackers; besides Bangkok, some scenes in this Hollywood production are filmed in Ko Phi Phi, a beach island in Southern Thailand.
- Ong-Bak: Muay Thai Warrior (องค์บาก, Prachya Pinkaew, 2003). Martial-arts star Tony Jaa's breakthrough film and an absolute must-see for those interested in Muay Thai or fight choreography. Many places in Bangkok are featured, but don't think Khao San Road is the underground fighting den as it is portrayed.
- Bangkok Traffic (Love) Story (รถไฟฟ้า..มาหานะเธอ, Adisorn Tresirikasem, 2009). While it could be described as a typical Thai chick flick aimed at middle-class Bangkokian women, it does give a good insight in Bangkok's traffic hassle and transportation networks. The movie's acronym (BTS) refers to Bangkok's Skytrain, which plays an important role in the film (which was released exactly 10 years after the opening of it).
- The Hangover Part II (Todd Phillips, 2011). American comedy movie about a group of friends that travel to Bangkok for their bachelor party. A lot of stereotypes are confirmed, but most scenes of the movie are shot in Yaowarat and Thonburi; the State Tower is also featured.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By plane
Bangkok is served by two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport [2] and Don Muang Airport [3]. Suvarnabhumi Airport is used by all airlines in Thailand, except for domestic flights on Nok Air and Orient Thai, which still use the old Don Muang Airport. Both these airports are about 30 kilometers (19 miles) from the city center, so be prepared for a long ride to get into the city. Also allow at least three hours to connect between them, as they are far away from each other and there is heavy congestion on the roads.[edit] Suvarnabhumi Airport
[edit] Facilities
Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities you would expect from a major international airport. There's a transit hotel, ATMs, money exchange, restaurants, tax-free shops, an observation lounge and even a "redemption booth", very reassuring for karmically challenged passengers. There are about 50 dining venues spread over the terminal building. The one that sounds most interesting probably is "Panda Ready To Eat", but the cheapest place for a meal is Magic Food Point on level 1, near gate 8. There are a few stores in the check-in area, including a convenience store and a post office; however, the real shopping experience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in the departure area, where the number of shops and duty free outlets leaves you wondering whether you are in an airport or a mall. There is not much to see at the observation deck on the seventh floor, since the steel structure of the roof blocks most of the view.[edit] Transportation
There are plenty of ways to get into the city from Suvarnabhumi Airport. Most people opt for the Airport Rail Link, by far the fastest way to get into downtown, although taxis are also reasonably priced by world standards.Located on the basement level of the passenger terminal, the Airport Rail Link [4] offers a high-speed train service to downtown Bangkok. It's also a way of avoiding Bangkok's horrendous rush hour traffic, particularly when it's raining. Trains run from 6AM till midnight every day and travel at an amazing 160 km an hour. Two different services are operated:
- The non-stop Express Line brings you directly to either Makkasan or Phayathai station in 15/18 min for 90 baht one way, with plenty of space of luggage. Express trains leave Suvarnabhumi Airport every 20-30 minutes, but check the destination: Phayathai offers easy transfers to the Skytrain, while Makkasan station is technically at walking distance of Phetchaburi MRT station, but the link bridge is still under construction and it's quite a hike at the moment (300+ meters). You can take bus 556 here that heads directly for the Southern Bus Terminal (the bus stop is not clearly marked though). On the way back, some airlines including Thai and Bangkok Airways offer baggage check-in at Makkasan if you arrive 3-13 hours before your flights.
- The slightly slower City Line is a commuter rail line that stops at all stations. Trains leave every 15 minutes, and after Makkasan station continue to Ratchaprarop and Phaya Thai stations. The ride to Phaya Thai takes about 30 minutes from the airport and costs 45 baht. If you're heading downtown, there is a good connection to the BTS Skytrain at Phaya Thai, though you will have to buy a new ticket. If Khao San Road is your final destination, you can hail taxis from the main road (around 70 baht), or hop aboard bus 15 (7 baht); this bus goes along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and Chakrabongse Road serving both sides of Khao San Road.
- 549: Suvarnabhumi to Bang Kapi
- 550: Suvarnabhumi to Happy Land
- 551: Suvarnabhumi to Victory Monument
- 552: Suvarnabhumi via On Nut to Khlong Toey
- 552A: Suvarnabhumi to Sam Rong
- 553: Suvarnabhumi to Samut Prakan
- 554: Suvarnabhumi to Don Muang Airport in Phahonyothin
- 555: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the expressway)
- 559: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the outer ring road)
Long-distance first class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi Airport directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Rayong, and Trat.
So-called limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g. around 800 baht to Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limousine hire counter on the second floor (just outside arrivals), and aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow yourself to be waylaid by one of these taxi touts, they might quote you more than double the fare than an ordinary metered taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400 baht, for example). You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence — ignore and walk straight past them.
[edit] Accommodation near the airport
There are plenty of hotels near Suvarnabhumi Airport, and huge construction projects are planned for the future. Day room facilities for transit passengers are now available at the Miracle Grand Louis Tavern on floor 4, concourse G (tel. +66-2-134-6565-6, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place to doze undisturbed at night can use one of the benches on the bottom floor of the terminal (which seem to be a popular choice with tourists and locals).All other accommodation in Bangkok is listed in the relevant district articles. If you want an overnight stay within 20 minutes of the airport, get a hotel along Lat Krabang Road, here covered in the Ramkhamhaeng district. The Tourist Authority of Thailand and other hotel and tourist agencies have counters on the arrivals floor of the main terminal. You can make reservations at plenty of hotels here. Check for special promotions and also whether the hotel offers an airport pick-up and drop-off service — especially useful for late night arrivals and early morning departures.
[edit] Don Muang Airport
Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD) (or Don Mueang), about 30 kilometers north of downtown, was Bangkok's main airport until 2006. The airport currently handles Nok Air [5] and Orient Thai [6] domestic flights, but the former international terminal is now limited to charters and general aviation.The public taxi stand is on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area (don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall), and is probably your best bet for getting into town — it's your only option after 11PM. The same booth and slip system as at Suvarnabhumi Airport is used here. If the queue at the taxi stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want to book a (so-called) limousine taxi from the desks in the terminal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed to carry passengers.
Across a covered overpass from the airport is Don Muang Train Station. Tickets to Hualamphong Train Station in central Bangkok cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down passenger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and are relatively empty late at night.
There are also a number of public transport buses going by the airport, just follow the signs out toward the train station. Buses towards central Bangkok are at the airport's side of the road, so don't cross the highway! These are useful bus lines:
- Air-conditioned bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld Plaza at Ratchaprasong intersection (close to Siam Square), as well as to Lumphini Park and Silom, from where you can have access to the Skytrain.
- Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 29 will take you to Hualamphong Train Station passing by many places, including Victory Monument and Siam Square. You can also get off at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, where you can switch onto the metro or Skytrain.
- Air-conditioned bus 59 will take you to Sanam Luang in Rattanakosin. This route is time-consuming as Rattanakosin is far off from the airport.
[edit] By bus
When buying tickets for buses out of Bangkok, it's best to skip travel agents and their private buses, and get the tickets for public buses directly at Bangkok's three public bus terminals. These buses are cheaper, safer, faster, more comfortable and won't scam you onto a clapped-out minibus halfway along the way or to a bedbug-infested hotel at the end. Each of these long haul bus terminals serve a different direction. They are purposefully located in off-central locations, so the long-haul buses avoid the heavy traffic congestion in the center of the city.The largest, busiest, and most modern terminal is the Northern Bus Terminal, ☎ +66-2-936-2841(-3), also known as Mo Chit. The upper floor serves the Isaan region in the northeast of Thailand; the ground floor serves Northern Thailand, and shares some destinations with Ekkamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat). The bus terminal is a fair hike from BTS station Mo Chit or MRT station Chatuchak Park. Motorbike taxis do the trip for a fixed 30 baht fare (bargaining is pointless), while tuk-tuks charge whatever they feel like — when bargaining, remember that a real taxi with air-conditioning will cost you about 45 baht (assuming little traffic). You can also take bus 77 and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board (this bus also goes from the terminal via Victory Monument, Pratunam and Silom Road. If you have a considerable amount of luggage, the easiest, if not necessarily fastest, option is to take a taxi directly to or from the bus terminal.
Buying tickets here is reasonably easy; find a window with your destination written on it (in friendly Roman letters), pay the fare in big numbers on the same window, and you'll get a ticket on the next available departure. Note that blue writing means 1st class, red means 2nd class (avoid on longer trips), and tickets for destinations in Isaan are sold from the third floor. Ask the information desk on the first floor if you need help, or any of the BKS staff, easily identifiable thanks to their natty white shirts with gold buttons. Now just find the departure stall and you're on your way. If you have time to kill, there are two fairly decent air-conditioned food courts at both ends of the main terminal building, plus KFC, Dunkin' Donuts and lots of 7-Eleven outlets.
The Eastern Bus Terminal, ☎ +66-2-391-2504, also known as Ekkamai, is a relatively compact terminal right next to Ekkamai BTS station in Sukhumvit. Ekkamai serves destinations in Eastern Thailand, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe (for Ko Samet), Chanthaburi and Trat.
Then there's the Southern Bus Terminal, +66-2-894-6122, also known as Sai Tai Taling Chan (สายใต้ตลิ่งชัน), that serves all destinations west and south of Bangkok from its somewhat inconvenient location on the Thonburi side of the river. In December 2007, the terminal moved to a new, even more remote location, at Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road in northern Thonburi. Long-distance buses leave from here to destinations throughout Western Thailand (including Nakhon Pathom and Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand (including Krabi, Phuket, Surat Thani, Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Hat Yai, and many others). The new terminal is a fairly pleasant airport-like structure with air-conditioning, electronic departure monitors (in English), a few bank offices and a KFC. Unlike the rip-off operators at Khao San Road, all buses from here are public, well-regulated, cheap and reasonably safe. Just buy your tickets at the numbered desk with your destination posted on it (almost always in English).
Getting to the terminal is a bit of headache, as public transport is limited. The easiest option is to take a metered taxi, but be sure the taxi knows where to go, or you may end up at the old Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai). The new one is located in the same direction, but is 4.5 km further from the center. If you're going there in the evening, especially during workdays, be prepared to fight a serious traffic jam — getting there can take 30 minutes or a full hour from the city center. A taxi ride from Khao San Road should end up around 120 baht in favorable traffic conditions. Ignore touts — unlike what they might say, there really is no "faster" way when all the roads are congested.
From Victory Monument BTS station, the terminal can be reached with pale orange air-conditioned bus 515 (16 baht). When approached by an onboard bus attendant ticketer, just say "Sai Tai Taling Chan". After quite a ride, the large bus terminal will be on the left side about 9 km after crossing the river (you won't miss it and probably will be told as well). Getting there by bus actually does not take much more time than taxi (it's almost the same in the likely case of a traffic jam), but the ride is much cheaper, especially if alone. Bus 556 from Suvarnabhumi Airport no longer goes from there, but from Makkasan above ground electric train station. There are also white minibuses (30 baht) from various points around Bangkok, eg. from Ramkhamhaeng (near Rajamangala National Stadium). There are inexpensive shuttle buses and slightly more expensive (but quicker loading and a bit faster) minibuses to and from the Northern Bus Terminal as well.
[edit] By train
Tickets for trains leaving the same or the next day can be bought on the counters under the big screens. The Advance Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you walk towards them and is quite well-organized. You can select your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by credit card are accepted. Also, finally you can book an e-ticket [8]; the price is the same, however, the quota reserved for e-booking is limited, and there are only first and second class air-conditioned sleeper tickets available.
A word of advice is to only listen to the people at the information desk — anyone else walking around offering to help you "find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing official-looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering "Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise. The taxi pick up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the opposite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away from the platforms.
If coming by train from the north or north-east, connecting to the metro at Bang Sue Train Station can shave the last half-hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board trains though, as there is practically no information or signage in English. However, this situation will doubtlessly improve as more and more long-distance departures are switched to here from Hualamphong Train Station to ease congestion in the inner city.
The Thonburi Train Station, formerly known as the Bangkok Noi Station, is on the west side of the river in Thonburi. It is the terminus for twice-daily trains to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon Pathom). Just to keep things confusing, the previous Thonburi Train Station right next to the river (accessible by the Chao Phraya Express Boat pier Railway Station) is now mothballed and turned into a museum, but it's only 800 meters away from the new station. Note that the weekend-only second class air-conditioned "tourist" trains to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok depart from Hualamphong Train Station.
Wongwien Yai Train Station only serves the rustic Mae Klong commuter line to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains run roughly hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The ride is of little interest if you want to get there fast, but is an experience for rail fans and an attraction in itself, with a nice view on the countryside's orchards, vegetable plantations and coconut groves. Maha Chai is a nice seafood destination, and if you feel like it, you can cross the Tha Chin river by ferry and continue by rail to Samut Songkhram. The railway station is about 800 meters from the Skytrain station of the same name; to get there, take a metered taxi for 35-50 baht, or walk (using a map).
[edit] By ship
Not many people come to Bangkok by boat, but there are some cruise ships that attend the city. Large ships must dock at Laem Chabang Port, about 90 minutes southeast of Bangkok and about 30 minutes north of Pattaya. A taxi service desk is available on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices for a trip to Bangkok — a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passengers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 passenger seats). Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out to the main road, about 4000 baht for a minibus, but even these rates are still almost double the typical rate in the opposite direction. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if returning the following day).Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect Laem Chabang with Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai); less frequent direct services run to the Northern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit). A first class air-conditioned bus (blue and white) to either will take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A quick way to get into downtown is to board an Ekkamai-bound bus and then disembark early at On Nut, where you can hop onto the Skytrain. The bus will always stop here if a passenger requests it.
Southbound buses en route to Pattaya can be boarded at the traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang. These are extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than 50 baht.
Modest-sized ships may dock further upriver at Khlong Toey Port, close to Bangkok's city center. A modest terminal provides processing for passengers (who may receive Thai customs and immigration processing on-board), as well as offering "managers" who arrange tours and taxis. Reaching major hotels and other points of interest is much cheaper than from Laem Chabang, but can vary according to the passenger's negotiating skills. The facility is not close to the MRT stop of Khlong Toei, the best way to get there is by metered taxi.
[edit] By car
Getting into Bangkok by car is not a good idea, as you can easily waste half a day waiting in traffic just to get to the other side of the city. Three major highways lead to Bangkok from all directions of Thailand. The best way to get to Bangkok from Northern Thailand is driving on Phahonyothin Road (Route 1), which comes from Mae Sai near the Myanmarese border. Sukhumvit Road (Route 3) comes from cities in Eastern Thailand, such as Trat, Pattaya and Chonburi. Phetkasem Road (Route 4) must be one of the longest roads in the world, as it comes all the way from the Malaysian border serving Southern Thailand.To ease congestion on these highways, a new system of motorways has emerged which will be extended in the future. The New Bangkok-Chonburi Motorway (Motorway 7) is covering the trip from Chonburi and Pattaya. Then there's the Kanchanaphisek National Highway (Motorway 9 or "Outer Ring Road") which makes a giant loop around Bangkok serving most satellite towns around it, such as Nonthaburi and Samut Prakan.
[edit] Get around
Bangkok is infamous for its congestion, but these days there are ways around it: hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the city center, or use boats to navigate the city's rivers and canals.[edit] By public transit
[edit] Skytrain
The BTS Skytrain (รถไฟฟ้าบีทีเอส rot fai fa BTS, pronounced bee-tee-et) [9] deserves a visit simply for the Disneyland space-ageness of it. Built in a desperate effort to ease Bangkok's insane traffic and pollution, the Skytrain covers most of downtown and is especially convenient for visiting Siam Square. There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit Line travels along Sukhumvit Road, Siam Square and then follows Phahonyothin Road up north, where it terminates near at Mo Chit (N8), near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The dark green Silom Line starts in Thonburi, passes the Express Boat pier near Saphan Taksin (S6), goes through the Silom area and ends at National Stadium (W1), right next to MBK Center. Both lines come together at Siam (CEN), where you can interchange between them. Unfortunately, there is no station near Khao San Road, but you can take the Express Boat from nearby Phra Athit pier to Sathon (Taksin) pier, where you can switch onto the Skytrain.You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets from vending machines, so hold on to them. Fares range from 15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are traveling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine. If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at the booth. If you are in town for several days (or going to make several visits during the next 30 days), weigh your options and consider a rechargeable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with a 30 baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable card cost), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht per day) or a multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone (15 trips cost 345 baht, 25 trips cost 550 baht; plus a 30 baht refundable deposit for a rechargeable card that is valid for 5 years). They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins, and maybe even money. Check for information with the English speaking staff.
[edit] Metro
The MRT (รถไฟฟ้ามหานคร rot fai tai din, pronounced em-ar-tee) [10] finally opened in July 2004. For now there is only one line, the Blue Line that connects the central Hualamphong Train Station (1) to the northern Bang Sue Train Station (18), running through Silom, Sukhumvit, Ratchadaphisek and area around Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. There are interchanges to the Skytrain at Si Lom (3), Sukhumvit (7) and Chatuchak Park (16) stations.Tourists do not use the metro as much as the Skytrain, but there are some useful stops. The terminus at Hua Lamphong (1) provides a good access to Yaowarat. If you're going to the Chatuchak Weekend Market, don't get out at Chatuchak Park, but go one stop further to Kamphaeng Phet (17) as it drops you right inside the market.
Metro tickets are not interchangeable with Skytrain tickets. Rides start from 15 baht and are based on distance; pre-paid cards of up to 1000 baht are also available. For single ride fares, a round plastic token is used. It is electronic: simply wave it by the scanner to enter; deposit it in a slot by the exit gate leave.
Note that bag-checks take place at the entrance of each station. It is usually nothing more than a quick peek inside, unless you are looking particularly suspicious.
[edit] Airport Rail Link
Finally opened in August 2010, Bangkok's newest public transportation system is the Airport Rail Link (รถไฟฟ้าเชื่อมท่าอากาศยานสุวรรณภูมิ) [11]. The Express Line is only useful for getting into the city, as it starts at the airport, skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan (City Air Terminal). This ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 150 baht. Trains run every 15 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From Makkasan, you can continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi MRT station, but it is quite a hike as the pedestrian bridge is still in construction.If you want to use it to get around the city, take the City Line as it is cheaper and it stops at all stations. Many Thais in Eastern Bangkok use it to commute to the city center. It starts at Suvarnabhumi Airport and terminates at Phaya Thai, with some interesting stops in between (such as Ramkhamhaeng and Ratchaprarop for Pratunam). The full ride takes about 30 minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya Thai, you can transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way.
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