Orlando 4

Part III

Settling into Orlando

In this part . . .

O

rlando isn’t New York or London, but it can seem over-

whelming at first. Getting around the tourist areas and

downtown Orlando can be a little intimidating. Don’t worry,

though — it isn’t as complicated as it looks. In this part, I

walk you through the city’s neighborhoods, tell you where

to catch local transportation, and erase any confusion you

may have.

Once you’ve got your bearings, I review the city’s best hotels

so you can zero in on a room that’s right for you. Then I detail

Orlando’s A-List eateries and give you lists of the city’s best

restaurants by price, location, and cuisine. And for dessert,

you get a thorough rundown of that most quintessential of

Orlando experiences — character meals.

Chapter 8

Arriving and Getting

Oriented

In This Chapter

Landing at the airport

Exploring Orlando’s neighborhoods

Getting information when you arrive

Exploring Orlando’s transportation options

A

ll roads in Orlando don’t lead to Disney, although the reverse may

seem true to first-time visitors. Yes, you’d be hard-pressed to drive

along a street or highway without coming across a sign directing you to

Walt Disney World, but this abundance of directions doesn’t mean that

you won’t find other signs pointing you to the rest of the city’s high-

lights. In this chapter, you take the first step, getting from the airport

to the parks, and you gain some insight about Orlando’s “other” major

neighborhoods.

Arriving in Orlando

Unlike many tourist-oriented cities, Orlando’s airports do not lie in the

heart of the city’s action. But fear not — both of the cities airports are

relatively user-friendly, and getting to the any one of the theme parks is

a generally hassle-free experience.

Navigating the airport

While some of your fellow travelers (in particular, those unfortunate

souls who didn’t read this book) are aimlessly meandering through the

hallways of the Orlando International Airport (% 407-825-2001; www.

orlandoairports.net), you’ll zippity-do-dah to baggage claim and into

your chariot of choice. Though the airport itself is generally easy to nav-

igate, it’s usually quite busy, there are plenty of distractions, and it can

take you a while to get from point A to point B.

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

Follow the signs carefully to get from the terminal you land in to baggage

claim. (You may need to take the tram to the main terminal and then go

to Level 2 for your bags.) Note: If you’re arriving from a foreign country,

you have to go through Immigration before baggage claim and then

through Customs after picking up your luggage.

If you need cash, ATMs are located in the arrival and departure termi-

nals near the three pods of gates (1–29, 30–59, and 60–99). ATMs also

are located where shuttles deposit you in the main terminal. If you need

to convert your pounds, euros, and so on to U.S. dollars, you can find

currency exchanges (open 9:30 a.m.–8 p.m.) opposite the ATMs at the

locations described above.

Most major car-rental companies are located at the airport (on Level 1)

with others located a mile or so down the road. Keep in mind that if the

company you choose is at a nearby location instead of right on-site,

you’ll need to take the shuttle to pick up your car. (See the Appendix in

the back of this book for the toll-free numbers of the major rental com-

panies.) You can catch hotel shuttles or taxis on the ground level of the

main terminal.

If you’re arriving on one of the newer regional or international budget

airlines that serves Orlando Sanford Airport (% 407-585-4000; www.

orlandosanfordairport.com), you’ll appreciate the smaller airport

layout. Baggage claim is downstairs, ATMs are found in the gate areas,

and most of the car-rental companies have locations right at the airport.

Finding your way to your hotel

The Orlando International Airport is a 25- to 40-minute hop, skip,

and long jump from Walt Disney World, depending on traffic, and 15 to

25 minutes from Universal Orlando and downtown. Mears Transportation

Group (% 407-423-5566; www.mearstransportation.com) is the major

shuttle player. It runs vans between the airport (you board at ground

level) and all Disney resorts and official hotels, and most other area

properties, every 15 to 25 minutes. Round-trip to downtown Orlando or

International Drive is $25 for adults ($18 for kids 4–11); it’s $29 for adults

($21 for kids) to Walt Disney World/Lake Buena Vista or Kissimmee/

U.S. 192.

Quick Silver Tours &Transportation (% 407-299-1434; www.quick

silver-tours.com) is more personal. You’re greeted at baggage claim

with a sign bearing your name. The cost is more than Mears, but it’s

coming for you, not other travelers, too. And it’s going only to your

resort. Included is an array of services, including a quick stop for gro-

ceries. Rates run $70 (up to four, round-trip) to I-Drive/Universal

Orlando and $90 to $100 to Disney. If you have a larger group (five or

more, round-trip) and require a van, the rates run $85 to Universal and

I-Drive and $105 to $115 to Disney. A Selective Transportation (% 888-

784-2522 or 407-354-2456; www.selectivelimo.com) is another company

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Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented

that offers a very high level of service. For $180, you get round-trip stretch

limo service from the airport to your hotel for up to eight people; the

price includes a free stop at a supermarket for food supplies, safety

seats for any children in your party, and a complimentary stuffed Mickey

Mouse for the kids. Cheaper shuttle rates are also available; check their

Web site for specials.

Taxis are another option when your party has enough people. The

standard rates for Ace Metro (% 407-855-0564) and Yellow Cab

(% 407-699-9999) run as high as $3.25 for the first mile and $1.75 per

mile thereafter, although you can sometimes get a flat rate. A one-way

trip to the I-Drive area could cost upwards of $30 or more, to Disney

closer to $60, and to the U.S. 192 area, expect to pay around $50. Vans

and taxis load on the ground level of the airport.

A few hotels offer free shuttle service to and from the airport, so be sure

to ask when booking your room. Hotel shuttles load on the ground level.

If you’re driving from the airport with a rental car, you have two options.

You can take the north exit out of the airport to 528 West (a toll road,

also known as the BeeLine Expressway). Follow the signs to I-4, then go

west to exits marked for Disney (you’ll find three), and follow the signs

to the appropriate area. Your drive should take about 30 to 40 minutes if

traffic isn’t too heavy. Disney exits are clearly marked on big green signs.

This route is also best if heading to Universal Orlando, SeaWorld, or the

International Drive area. If your destination is solely Disney, you can also

take the south exit from the airport, which leads you down Boggy Creek

Road to SR 417 West (another toll road known as the Greeneway). Exit

onto 536 and follow the signs straight into Disney. This route has less

traffic but costs about an extra dollar in tolls.

When you’re traveling from Orlando Sanford Airport, a rental car is

really your best bet — even if you only rent it for the days you arrive

and depart Orlando (if this is the case, choose a company with locations

in or near your hotel for pick-ups and drop-offs). Taxi or shuttle service

from the airport is expensive; expect a minimum fare of $60 to the

Universal Orlando/International Drive areas and a minimum fare of $100

to the Disney and Kissimmee areas.

Upon leaving Sanford airport, exit onto Lake Mary Boulevard. From here,

you can take the 417/Greeneway exit and follow that to Disney. Or you

can go past that exit and take the one for I-4 West, which leads you past

downtown to all the major theme-park attractions. Again, the Greeneway

is the less traveled, faster route, but it’s a toll road. For either route,

expect about 45 minutes to the Universal Orlando/International Drive

areas and about 60 minutes to Disney (even longer if driving I-4 between

3 and 6 p.m.).

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

Figuring Out the Neighborhoods

Though the area encompassing the various theme parks and their

accompanying paraphernalia (hotels, restaurants, and so on) is almost

always referred to as Orlando, the region is actually made up of some

very distinct sections, several of which are not actually in Orlando

proper at all.

Walt Disney World

The empire, its big and little parks, resorts, restaurants, shops, and

assorted trimmings, are scattered across 30,500 acres, or a total area

of about 41 square miles. What you may find most surprising is that

WDW isn’t really located in Orlando at all — it’s just southwest of the city

proper, off I-4 between West U.S. 192 and S.R. 535. If you choose to stay

with Mickey you’ll find that convenience has its price. Accommodations

at the mouse’s house can run as much as double the price of nearby

Kissimmee hotels and resorts. On the plus side, you get access to the free

Disney Transportation System (though at times that may not be that big

of plus) and a handful of perks and privileges (such as early park entry

and extra evening hours) that are extended only to Disney resort guests.

Also on Disney property is Downtown Disney, an area off to itself

encompassing three very distinctive zones: Downtown Disney West Side

and Pleasure Island, Disney’s two nighttime entertainment districts,

and Downtown Disney Marketplace, the nearby shopping district.

Combined, they’re filled with restaurants, shops, entertainment venues,

and clubs; each quite unique in its offerings, atmosphere, and price.

Downtown Disney is closest to the Lake Buena Vista zone described

later.

Even if you’re not staying or driving in Mickeyville, getting a map of the

Walt Disney World Transportation System is a good idea, so you can see

where everything is. It’s currently included in Disney’s Planning Guide to

Recreation, Dining, and Shopping, which is free and available at the Guest

Relations desks inside all the Disney hotels and theme parks.

Lake Buena Vista

Lake Buena Vista is Disney’s next-door neighborhood. It’s where you

find “official” (yet not Disney-owned) hotels, and it’s close to Downtown

Disney and all of its offerings. This charming area has manicured lawns,

tree-lined thoroughfares, and free transportation throughout the realm,

but it may take a while to get from Point A to Point B because of a combi-

nation of slow shuttle service and heavy traffic. There is a plethora of

shops, services, and restaurants practically at your doorstep, and all

within minutes from the Mouse. Although this area is not nearly as

costly as Walt Disney World itself, it’s generally more expensive than

International Drive and Kissimmee.

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Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

Celebration

Imagine an entire town designed by Disney, with perfect white picket

fences, tree lined walkways, and gingerbread trimmed houses. In

Celebration, Disney redesigned reality to reflect an idealized version

of Small Town, U.S.A. The 4,900-acre town has thousands of residents

living in beautiful colonial-and Victorian-inspired homes. Celebration’s

downtown area is, however, designed for tourists, though it does have

charming appeal. It’s filled with upscale shops, boutiques, restaurants,

and coffee shops, and it even has its own small, yet elegant, hotel.

Kissimmee

Way back before Mickey moved to town, Kissimmee was the hotspot.

Overlooked, in recent years, with the expansion of the International

Drive and Lake Buena Vista tourist districts, Kissimmee is being revived

and made more tourist-friendly with the addition of wide walkways,

landscaping, and improved roadways. Although still filled with some of

the tackier T-shirt shops and tourist traps in the area, some moderately

priced hotels and even a few luxury resorts have begun to spring up just

to the south. Kissimmee is only a short drive (roughly 10–15 miles)

southeast from the House of Mouse and, with plenty of modest motels

and resorts, it’s a great choice for travelers on a budget. The town

centers on U.S. 192/Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, which, alas, is

perennially under construction.

International Drive

Known locally as I-Drive, the tourist mecca of International Drive

extends 7 to 10 miles north of the Disney kingdom between Highway 535

and the Florida Turnpike. From bungee jumping and skate boarding,

surfing to shopping, themed restaurants, more than a hundred hotels,

and a slew of shops, this stretch of road is the tourist strip in Central

Florida. It’s home to the Orange County Official Visitors Center and

offers easy access to SeaWorld and Universal Orlando. The northern

half of I-Drive beyond Sand Lake Road is already packed, and developers

continue to eat up space in the southern half, especially near the Orange

County Convention Center; south of the Bee Line Expressway (528) the

resorts become far more spread out than in the north. Traffic along this

route is perennially problematic, so be sure to allot plenty of extra time

if you’re traveling on it during the morning and evening rush hours.

Dr. Phillips

Once a non-descript residential area dotted with a few odd shops and

doctors offices, the Sand Lake strip of Dr. Phillips, just west of I-4,

has been developed into an upscale shopping and dining mecca. The

new mall complexes at the intersection of West Sand Lake Road and

Dr. Phillips Boulevard now host no fewer than a dozen fine dining

restaurants. For a quiet and sophisticated dining experience, outside

the commotion of the theme parks, this is by far your best bet.

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Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented

Downtown Orlando

Right off I-4 East, Downtown Orlando is actually north of the theme-park

areas and is home to loads of clubs, shops, cultural attractions, and

restaurants. Dozens of antiques shops line Antique Row on Orange

Avenue near Lake Ivanhoe. Hotels in this area are mostly aimed at busi-

ness travelers, as this is also the commercial center of the city and isn’t

a convenient place to stay if visiting the theme parks is the major point

of your trip to Orlando. A few B&Bs draw couples seeking more sophisti-

cated surroundings, and it is a great place for a night out on the town.

Winter Park

Just north of downtown Orlando, the quiet town of Winter Park is where

many of Central Florida’s old-money families call home (and where new-

money ones come to shop and dine). It’s noteworthy for Park Avenue,

a collection of upscale shops and restaurants along a tree lined, cobble-

stone street. Winter Park’s appeal comes from its sophisticated, yet

charming, upscale offerings and has little, if any, kid appeal. It’s defi-

nitely too far north to use as a home base if you plan on spending much

of your time at the Disney parks. If you want some quiet time away from

the theme-park madness, though, it’s a nice place to spend an afternoon.

Finding Information after You Arrive

After you’ve landed, your best and most immediate source for up-to-date

information is the concierge or the front desk at your hotel (especially

if you’re staying at Disney or Universal, as they’re more knowledgeable

than most).

If you’re in the International Drive area, stop for information at the offi-

cial Orlando Visitors Center, 8723 International Dr. (% 407-363-5872;

www.orlandoinfo.com), just four blocks south of Sand Lake Road.

Both the Orlando Weekly (distributed every Thurs) and Friday’s calen-

dar section in the Orlando Sentinel include plenty of tourist-friendly

information about dining and entertainment.

At Orlando International Airport, arriving passengers can find assistance

at The Magic of Disney (third level, right behind the Northwest Airlines

ticket counter) and Disney Earport (across from the Hyatt Regency), two

shops located in the main terminal. They sell Disney multiday park tick-

ets, make dinner, show, and hotel reservations, and provide brochures

and information. Facilities are open daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Also in the main terminal at the airport, you’ll find two locations each

of the Universal Studios Store and the SeaWorld Store, as well as a

Kennedy Space Center Store. All provide similar services with ticketing

and are open daily from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

Getting Around Orlando

Your major decision regarding Orlando transportation will be whether to

use Walt Disney World’s transportation system (which is truly useful

only to those staying at a WDW resort), use your own car (yours or a

rental), or stick to other means. The system that works best for you

depends on what you want to see, where you’re staying, and how much

time (and money) you want to spend getting around the city.

By Disney’s transportation system

If you plan to stay at a Disney resort or an official hotel (see Chapter 9

for more information about Disney hotels) and spend the majority of

your time visiting Disney parks, you can probably skip a rental car — at

least for most of your stay. A free transportation network runs through

Disney World. Buses, ferries, water taxis, and monorails operate from

two hours prior to the parks’ opening until two hours after closing.

Likewise, Disney offers service to Downtown Disney, Typhoon Lagoon,

Blizzard Beach, Pleasure Island, Fort Wilderness Resort & Campground,

and all the Disney resorts.

The advantages of using Disney’s transportation system include

It’s free.

You save on car-rental and gasoline charges.

You don’t have to pay $8 a day to park in the theme-park lots.

(Note: Disney resort guests are exempt from parking fees at the

theme parks.)

If your party wants to split up, you can easily head elsewhere while

others remain behind without being stranded.

During busy periods when Disney’s parking lots may close (and this

does happen), those riding the transportation system will still get

to the parks.

Disadvantages include

You’re at the mercy of Disney’s schedule.

The shortest distance between two points is not always a straight

line. You may very well have to take a ferry to catch a bus to get on

the monorail to reach your hotel. The system makes a complete cir-

cuit, but doesn’t necessarily travel the most direct route for you.

It can take an hour or more to get somewhere that’s right across a

lagoon from you.

You must endure multiple stops, particularly on buses and at peak

periods, with crowds that may well force you to wait for the next bus.

Parents may find herding young children and their accompanying

paraphernalia off and on buses exhausting.

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Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented

If you plan to travel on the Disney network, first verify with the driver,

the bell staff, or someone at your hotel’s guest-relations desk that you’re

taking the most direct route. Keep asking questions along the way. Unlike

missing a highway exit, missing a stop on the bus route means you have

to take another ride on the Mickey-go-round.

By car

Most visitors to Orlando — especially those staying a week or more —

choose to rent a car for at least a day or two in order to venture beyond

the parks. (Yes, there is far more to Florida than its thrills and theme

parks.) See Chapter 7 for more information on renting a car in Orlando;

check out the Appendix at the back of this book for toll-free numbers of

various car-rental agencies.

Orlando’s major artery is Interstate 4. Locals call it I-4 or that #@$*%^#!!

road, because it’s often horridly congested, especially during weekday

rush hours (7–9 a.m. and 4–6 p.m.), when it more likely resembles a

parking lot. I-4 runs diagonally across the state from Tampa to Daytona

Beach. Exits from I-4 lead to all WDW properties, Universal Orlando,

SeaWorld, International Drive, U.S. 192, Kissimmee, Lake Buena Vista,

downtown Orlando, and Winter Park. Most of the exits are well marked,

but construction is common, and exit numbers occasionally change. If

you get directions by exit number, always for ask the name of the road

as well to avoid getting lost. (Cellphone users can call % 511 to get a

report of I-4 delays.)

Despite the fact that when you look at any map of the area it will seem

that I-4 runs north to south, on road signs, it’s always listed as east and

west. To avoid getting lost, remember that I-4 west takes you towards

Disney World (and Tampa) from Universal Orlando, I-Drive and down-

town Orlando; I-4 east heads from Disney and Kissimmee towards

Universal Orlando (and Daytona).

The Florida Turnpike crosses I-4, near Universal Orlando, and links with

I-75 to the north. U.S. 192, a major east-west artery that’s also called the

Irlo Bronson Memorial Highway, reaches from Kissimmee to U.S. 27,

crossing I-4 near the WDW entrance road. Farther north, the BeeLine

Expressway toll road (or Hwy. 528) goes east from I-4 past Orlando

International Airport to Cape Canaveral and the Kennedy Space Center.

The East-West Expressway (also known as Hwy. 408) is another toll road

that runs from I-4 near downtown east to SR 50 by the University of

Central Florida. The final major toll road, SR 417 (also known as the

Greeneway), partially encircles the eastern edge of Orlando starting at

I-4 just south of Disney and winds past the southern edge of Orlando

International Airport before ending up near the northern edge of Orlando

by the Orlando Sanford Airport.

One of the area’s lesser known roads, Turkey Lake Road runs parallel to

I-4 and is often used by locals to avoid the heavy traffic of I-4 from WDW

to Universal Orlando. It starts as the Palm Parkway near Disney and

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

turns into Turkey Lake Road just past the hotel area, eventually running

right up to Universal. It intersects with both Central Florida Parkway,

which takes you right to SeaWorld, and Sand Lake Road, which takes

you to both Dr. Phillips and the I-Drive areas.

Here are a few (in some cases, redundant) tips for driving in Orlando.

Remember to allow for rush-hour traffic from 7 to 9 a.m. and 4 to

6 p.m. daily.

In Florida, you can turn right on red after coming to a full stop and

making sure that the coast is clear (unless signs say otherwise).

Consider yourself warned: If you’re sitting at a red light with your

blinker on and not turning right, you’ll probably hear horns blaring.

Make sure that your path is clear and then move it.

Don’t try to drive and read the road map at the same time (it just

needed to be said).

Posted speed limits are enforced vigorously. Fines for speeding begin

at more than $150. Pay particular attention to road construction

and school zones, where speed limits are reduced and speeding

fines are doubled — they’re not kidding.

Remember the Name Game: International Drive is called I-Drive. Irlo

Bronson Memorial Highway is U.S. 192 or just 192. Highway 528 is

the BeeLine Expressway. State Route 535 is also known as Apopka

Vineland. State Road 50 is more commonly called Colonial Drive,

and Highway 417 is also known as the Greeneway.

You must have a handicap permit to park in handicap parking

places. Handicap permits from other states are honored, but a dis-

abled license plate alone won’t do.

Buckle up: Florida law says front- and rear-seat passengers alike

must wear a seat belt. This includes children, who, if younger than

age 5, must be restrained in an approved safety seat (seat belt or

booster seat) and, if younger than age 3, in an approved car seat. If

you don’t want to bring your own from home, most car-rental agen-

cies can provide one for about $10 a day.

In an emergency, dial % 911, or you can reach the Florida Highway

Patrol on a cellphone by dialing % *FHP.

By taxi

Yellow Cab (% 407-699-9999) and Ace Metro (% 407-855-0564) are

among the taxicab companies serving the Orlando area. But for day-to-

day travel to and from the attractions or restaurants, cabs are expensive

unless your group has five or more people. Rates can run as high as

$3.25 for the first mile and $1.75 per mile thereafter, though sometimes

you can get a flat rate.

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Chapter 8: Arriving and Getting Oriented

By shuttle

Mears Transportation Group (% 407-423-5566; www.mears

transportation.com) operates shuttle buses to all major attractions,

including Universal Orlando, SeaWorld, and Disney. Shuttles also run

to Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral and Busch Gardens in

Tampa and it is also one of the most cost effective of all the shuttle serv-

ices available. (For more about great attractions just outside of Orlando,

see Chapter 23.) Rates vary by destination.

By trolley

The I-Ride Trolley on International Drive (% 407-248-9590; www.iride

trolley.com) runs every 20 to 30 minutes, from 8 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

(75¢ for adults, 25¢ for seniors, kids younger than 12 ride free; exact

change is required). An unlimited one-day pass also is available for $2

per person. The main route runs from the Belz Factory Outlet Malls to

SeaWorld with an additional route that runs along Universal Boulevard

from Sea World Road to Kirkman Road. Because of I-Drive’s heavy traffic,

the trolley is usually the best way to get around whenever you’re staying

or spending a good portion of the day in this area.

By motorcycle

If you have a valid motorcycle license, you can rent bikes at Orlando

Harley Davidson, 3770 37th St. (% 877-740-3770 or 407-423-0346; www.

orlandoharley.com), and American V Twin, 5101 International Drive

(% 800-268-8946 or 407-903-0058; www.amvtwin.com/orlando_

harley_rentals.html). Their inventories can be in short supply, so

call in advance. You must be at least 21 (and sometimes 25) years of

age, have a motorcycle license, and have a major credit card. Rentals

start at about $750 per week (or around $150 per day) and include hel-

mets, locks, and a brief orientation.

Reserve months in advance when you’re visiting during Bike Week —

in late February and early March — or Biketober Fest in mid-October.

(Both events are held in Daytona Beach, but many bikers still stay in

Orlando.)

By bus

Lynx (% 407-841-5969; www.golynx.com) public bus stops are marked

with a paw print. Some bus routes serve Disney, Universal Orlando,

International Drive, and the downtown area ($1.25 for adults, 50¢ for

kids ages 8–18), but they are slow going and not very visitor-friendly.

On foot

I don’t recommend traveling on foot anywhere in Orlando, but it is occa-

sionally necessary to walk across a parking lot or street. Be extremely

careful. With rare exception, this city isn’t conducive to strolling. Within

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Part III: Settling into Orlando

the safe confines of the theme parks, you’ll have no problems hoofing it

(in fact, you’ll be on your feet quite a bit), but walking anywhere outside

the theme parks is a thrills-and-chills experience most people would

prefer to avoid. Orlando is among the most dangerous cities in the coun-

try for pedestrians, according to a Washington, D.C.–based research

group. Wide roads designed to move traffic quickly and a shortage of

sidewalks, streetlights, and crosswalks are to blame.